In this region of Ukraine, the happy and unhappy history of Ukrainian Jews can be seen in these different towns. When you greet the violinists on the rooftops of Lvov, you will think of Scholem Aleikhem. Czernowitz, meanwhile, was home to many synagogues and was also the birthplace of Paul Celan. Synagogues are often reduced to walls or commemorative plaques. Like the remains of the sublime ...